March in review: UK combats counterfeit cosmetics, US EPA bans asbestos and FDA backs benzene

01 Apr 2024 --- March saw key regulatory bodies take action, with the EU offering more information about the upcoming PFAS ban, the US FDA backing benzene despite a health warning from an independent quality assurance provider and the US Environmental Protection Agency banning the last type of asbestos still used by American companies.

Personal Care Insights checked in with cosmetic ingredient suppliers and manufacturers to learn about innovations amid trends highlighting “well-aging” and “skinification.”

Big beauty businesses also stole the spotlight as Galderma glittered in its Swiss stock market debut. At the same time, Douglas was a disappointment with shares sharply lower upon its return to the Frankfurt Stock Exchange.

Learn more about the significant stories in March that made headlines in the personal care and beauty sector.

March

UK launches “Choose Safe not Fake” campaign to combat counterfeit beauty and hygiene products
The UK’s Intellectual Property Office (IPO) stepped up efforts to combat the growing market for counterfeit beauty and hygiene products with its latest campaign, “Choose Safe Not Fake.” The project supports the IPO’s mission to raise public awareness of and respect for intellectual property rights. CEO and comptroller Adam Williams said the “new, highly focused campaign [will] deliver a very clear message — that the serious risks to health these counterfeit goods pose can never amount to a ‘good deal’ for shoppers.”

Kao expands hair care offerings with Melt and discusses Bioré tech to tackle heat and humidity
Kao launched the Melt brand as part of plans to “completely rebuild” its Hair Care segment. The Melt Moisture Shampoo and Moisture Treatment contain a hybrid repair formulation targeting the outer and inner hair layers. The Japanese chemical company also talked to us about its recent Bioré Zero skin comfort launch, designed to relieve discomfort associated with hot temperatures and humidity thanks to Kao’s “powder veil technology.”

Personal care sector applauds FDA safety approval of benzoyl peroxide amid benzene scare
The Personal Care Products Council applauded the US FDA’s stance that benzoyl peroxide is a safe and effective anti-acne ingredient. Previous analysis from independent quality assurance provider Valisure suggested acne products containing benzoyl peroxide could produce high levels of benzene when exposed to hot temperatures. The trade body said Valisure’s findings were “based on unproven, questionable methods applying unrealistic conditions, which are inconsistent with the way the product would be stored normally.”

PFAS ban looms as EU Chemicals Agency sets proposal review dates
The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) shed light on the progress of evaluating the restriction proposal for PFAS under the EU’s chemicals regulation REACH. After a consultation garnered more than 5,600 comments, ECHA said its scientific committees for Risk Assessment and Socio-Economic Analysis would assess the proposed restriction plus comments received during the consultation.

EU report warns cosmetics pose top health risk among non-food commercial goods
The EU Commission’s (EC) annual report on Safety Gate, a rapid alert system for dangerous non-food products, found cosmetics were the most frequently notified product category posing health risks. Justice Commissioner Didier Reynders said “product safety is the backbone of consumer protection…even the most ordinary [objects] are the result of complex processes that can be damaging.” The EC said an updated framework to improve product safety will be unveiled as the General Product Safety Regulation goes into effect this December.

EPA bans asbestos in consumer goods to eliminate exposure to carcinogens
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) announced a final rule to ban the ongoing use of chrysotile asbestos, the only known form of asbestos imported into the US. The “Development of the ‘National Asbestos Profile’ to Eliminate Asbestos-Related Diseases in 195 Countries” study suggested the ingredient kills nearly 40,000 Americans every year. The Environmental Working Group said this is the “first-ever” substance the EPA successfully banned using new authority given by Congress in 2016 when it reformed the Toxic Substances Control Act.The US EPA banned asbestos in consumer goods to eliminate exposure to carcinogens.

UK retailers Superdrug and Next ease financial stress with price freeze and cuts
Two UK retailers announced plans to help consumers cope with the rising cost of living. Superdrug froze prices until the summer for 5,000 makeup products, including Rimmel, ELF and Maybelline. The retailer said it held a 40.5% market share in mass-market cosmetics — its highest market share in ten years. Fashion and homeware company Next reduced prices after reporting larger-than-expected profits, managing to deal with delays caused by the Red Sea crisis. It said it has been a while since it “started a year in a more positive frame of mind.”

Big beauty IPO snapshot: Galderma’s shares climb at market debut, Douglas dips in Frankfurt comeback
March saw a tale of two initial public offerings (IPOs). Galderma was golden in its market debut, with the Swiss skin care brand seeing its shares soar on the SIX Swiss Exchange. However, the performance of perfumery and cosmetics retailer Douglas was disappointing, with the stock dropping significantly upon its return to the Frankfurt Stock Exchange after ten years. While each beauty player is distinct in their activities, both aim to pay down critical debt loads in a high-interest rate environment.

In-cosmetics Global: Clariant creates CycloRetin as natural and gentle retinol alternative
Clariant unveiled CycloRetin as a natural and gentle retinol alternative ahead of In-cosmetics Global in Paris, France. The specialty chemical company said the ingredient in prince ginseng helps activate the benefits of retinol. International Flavors and Fragrances and its in-house natural ingredients specialist, LMR Naturals, said they would also present “an immersive sensory experience” featuring some of their ingredients. Meanwhile, Symrise launched its readily biodegradable ingredient, Savelite HB, before the April trade show.

In-cosmetics Global: Givaudan unveils Neuroglow to boost melanin production and attain “faster, healthier, better-protected tan”
Givaudan promoted Neuroglow as an “unprecedented solution to mimic all the positive effects of sunlight.” The sun is recognized for its beneficial impact on mood and energy due to vitamin D production, contributing to a tanner skin tone. However, with contemporary lifestyles leading to more time spent indoors, the company said its latest active ingredient helps attain a “faster, healthier, more natural and better-protected tan.” Learn more about the active ingredient that will be showcased at In-cosmetics Global 2024 in April.

By Anita Sharma