China releases two cosmetic catalogs to improve ingredient safety and usage

13 May 2024 --- China’s National Institutes for Food and Drug Control issues two new catalogs to help improve cosmetic safety in the country. The International Authoritative Cosmetic Safety Assessment Data Index is designed for companies to access data on ingredients.

The data index can be utilized as a reference for cosmetic safety assessments. It is a collection of ingredients used in cosmetics in China that are not included in the “Technical Guidelines for Cosmetics Safety Assessment.” 

The agency joins the European Union Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and the US Cosmetic Ingredient Review, who also have safety assessment reports. 

The Usage Information for Ingredients in Marketed Products informs on ingredient usage. It records the amounts used in “special” cosmetics within the validity period of their approvals in China, which are not included in the “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics.” 

Cosmetic safety
The index explains that when applying the assessment conclusions from cosmetic safety assessment bodies, companies should analyze the relevant data and, if compliant with the applicable regulations of Chinese cosmetics law, adopt the related assessment conclusions. 

The catalog contains 3,651 ingredients. According to the index, cosmetic registrants and filers should be checked using the aforementioned safety assessments. 

Cosmetic ingredients regulations will adjust as new research is conducted.It also highlights that with advancements in science and technology and the improvement of public awareness, the types of ingredients assessed and the conclusions drawn may change.

Product ingredients
The Usage Information for Ingredients in Marketed Products catalog contains 2,234 ingredients. It is a systematic evaluation of the safety of the ingredients listed. Cosmetic registrants and filers must comply with national laws, regulations, standards and specifications, conduct cosmetic safety assessments and assume responsibility for product quality and safety.

Cosmetic registrants and filers should use the recommended amounts of the specified ingredients following the product’s method of use and area of application.

The information recommends that usage instructions be included. Companies should specify that ingredients can be used in the following order: The whole-body skin, torso, face, lips and eyes or the whole-body skin, torso, hands, feet, head and hair. 

Subsequent application areas can refer to earlier areas’ ingredient usage amounts. However, if the product is intended for use on the eyes and relates to usage amounts for other areas, an additional assessment of the ingredient’s potential for eye irritation is required.

Focus on ingredients
The Environmental Working Group also released its 2024 Guide to Sunscreens, revealing that three-quarters of approximately 1,700 evaluated SPF products fell short of “adequate” sun protection, with many containing ingredients that pose health risks.

Earlier this month, Lawmakers in the California Assembly’s Environmental Safety and Toxics Materials Committee approved a new bill to ban toxic chemicals from air care products such as fresheners and scented candles.

By Sabine Waldeck