Carcinogen-laced cosmetics: California retailers found selling banned chemicals

California’s Department of Public Health, US, has identified over 170 personal care products being sold across the state that contain carcinogens and neurotoxins banned by law.

The Environmental Working Group (EWG), is calling for urgent enforcement to remove the products containing the toxic chemicals, which includes formaldehyde, mercury, and PFAS. Products flagged in the state’s Safe Cosmetics Program include lash adhesives, hair treatments, skin care, and nail hardeners sold in 12 counties.

A complete list of the non-compliant products is now publicly available. It includes dozens of items from companies with broad consumer reach selling globally, such as OPI, Laneige, Ardell, and Beauty Pie.  

“Consumers shouldn’t have to rely on a PDF to know they are not poisoning themselves,” says Susan Little, EWG’s senior advocate for California government affairs.

Formaldehyde in the fine print

Despite being outlawed under California’s 2020 Toxic-Free Cosmetics Act, the report’s most commonly found banned substance is formaldehyde, classified as a known human carcinogen. It appeared in over 90 products, particularly in nail hardeners and hair treatments from Brazilian Blowout, Nexxus, Ardell, and OPI.

Formaldehyde becomes airborne during use, making inhalation a major risk.In personal care products, formaldehyde may be added directly or released gradually from preservatives such as methylene glycol or quaternium-15. These compounds often mask the presence of formaldehyde, allowing the chemical to appear under alternative names on ingredient lists, making it harder for consumers to identify and avoid.

Formaldehyde released from personal care products can become airborne, making inhalation a key route of exposure. Notably, three Dial spray deodorants were found to contain the toxin. The chemical has been linked to cancers of the nose, throat, and blood.

Long-term exposure results in neurological damage, while short-term exposure can cause eye, skin, and throat irritations, chest pain, vomiting, and wheezing. People with asthma or chemical sensitivities may face more severe respiratory effects.

The risk is heightened for salon workers and consumers using multiple products containing the chemical.

“State laws work,” says Little. “California’s strong safety standards have pushed many companies to reformulate their products — not just for Californians, but for consumers across the country. That is a big win for public health. But some products with toxic, banned ingredients still slip through the cracks.”

Heavy metal hazard

Mercury was found in several skin care and makeup products, including tinted serums, eyebrow pencils, and eyeliners. In some cases, the same product in multiple shades contained mercury.

According to the WHO, the neurotoxin causes kidney damage, nervous system disorders, psychosis, neurological damage, and severe skin reactions. It can also build up in the body over time and cross the placenta during pregnancy.  Toxic chemicals like mercury can pass into breast milk.

The US FDA says: “Some people — including pregnant women, nursing babies, and young children — are especially vulnerable to mercury toxicity. Babies may be particularly sensitive as mercury can cause harm to their developing brains and nervous systems. Newborns who nurse are vulnerable because mercury is passed into breast milk.”

Exposure can occur through direct skin absorption. However, mercury vapor from these products can also linger in the air and cling to household items like towels or clothing, allowing for second-hand exposure.

Beauty Pie and DermaQuest products were among those most frequently named for mercury content.

Little urges that “stronger enforcement is critical to protect public health and remove these threats from our communities.”

Personal Care Insights previously reported on the regulatory loopholes, gaps in enforcement, and rise of informal supply chains that allow mercury to permeate markets despite its known toxicity.

The US Environmental Protection Agency says 165 million Americans are exposed to PFAS in tap water.Water-resistant pollutants

Several products from Laneige, Amorepacific’s K-beauty brand widely popular for its skin care and social media presence, contained per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), also known as “forever chemicals.”

PFAS are often added to cosmetics to make water-resistant, smooth, or long-wearing formulations. However, the ingredients do not break down in the environment or the human body. 

Forever chemicals accumulate over time, and exposure, whether through the skin or by ingestion, is linked to cancer, immune suppression, reproductive harm, and endocrine disruption.

When PFAS-containing products are rinsed off, they enter water systems where they can pollute surface water and, eventually, the drinking water supply. According to the US Environmental Protection Agency, 165 million Americans are exposed to PFAS in their tap water, a number that’s grown by 6.5 million in the past few months.

“The documented extent of PFAS contamination of the country’s water supply highlights the enormous scale of contamination,” says David Andrews, acting chief science officer at the EWG.

“Addressing the problem means going to the source,” he says. “For PFAS, that is industrial sites, chemical plants, and the unnecessary use of these chemicals in consumer products.”