Disaster to development: Turning invasive algae into sustainable cosmetics

Origin by Ocean has partnered with CABB Group to turn invasive brown algae, which is currently causing an environmental disaster, into sustainable cosmetic ingredients. The companies will open a biorefinery in Kokkola, Finland, to address the need for ecological alternatives in the cosmetics industry as it transitions away from fossil-based ingredients.

Origin by Ocean will start operations in 2028 and use its patented biorefinery technology to process Sargassum into ingredients such as biomass residue, fucoidan, and alginate.  

Personal Care Insights speaks with Mari Granström, chief executive activist and CEO of Origin by Ocean, about how invasive brown algae hold the potential to create sustainable cosmetics. 

“Our fossil-based world is broken. For change to be possible at a large scale, we need to reimagine the value chains of the products we use daily in our lives.”

Unlike traditional linear supply chains that extract single products and often have high waste, she explains that biorefineries exemplify sustainable technology by continuously converting the feedstock into multiple product streams to maximize the value of the natural resource.

“The advantage of our technology is that we can establish facilities worldwide. We are ready to scale and are actively looking for partners to accelerate the widespread industrial adoption of new ingredients derived from brown algae,” says Granström.

The company says nearly all everyday products, including cosmetics, currently contain fossil-based chemicals.Out of control

Origin by Ocean’s system fosters a circular economy and helps develop a near-zero-waste approach by valorizing multiple compounds in the biomass. The company says that nearly all everyday products, including cosmetics, currently contain fossil-based chemicals.

Granström explains that the algae it uses as its feedstock are growing out of control and creating an ecological disaster in affected areas such as the Caribbean. 

Harmful algae blooms impact oceans worldwide, especially in the Caribbean and West Africa. The blooming has left beaches unusable and disrupted fishing in local communities. 

It also produces up to 40 million metric tons of biomass per year, and the Jamaican government estimates that cleaning beaches from brown algae costs US$120 million annually. 

Granström tells us that Origin by Ocean is already planning additional biorefineries in the Caribbean, which are closer to the Sargassum blooms. 

“By removing this ocean overgrowth, we help to effectively restore marine ecosystems and prevent GHG from this algae from washing ashore and decomposing. Through this process, we are not just creating sustainable cosmetic ingredients, but regenerative ones,” she says.

The technology’s patented process is based on the principles of green chemistry. It does not use substances of very high concern and yields “high-purity compounds,” safe for use in a wide range of personal care and beauty products.

Origin by Ocean is actively working on applications in makeup and sun care.Creating cosmetics

The company is taking the invasive algae and turning them into sustainable personal care ingredients. 

“We have tested our ingredients in personal care and skin care products and are actively working on applications in makeup and sun care,” says Granström.

She details the first two ingredients that Origin by Ocean will commercialize from its seaweed biorefinery — OceanBoost LF, with International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) fucoidan, and OceanThix LV with INCI algin.

“OceanBoost LF is a low molecular weight, multifunctional polysaccharide that hydrates and calms the skin. Its biomimetic sulfated fucose structure allows it to effectively draw water into the skin and provide soothing effects, making it a potent skin revitalizer.”

Origin by Ocean is exploring additional benefits, such as whether it is suitable for signs of aging, improving the skin microbiome, having synergistic effects with other known hydrators, and improving hair and scalp health, including hair and eyelash growth.

“OceanThix LV is a novel biopolymer that boosts viscosity and improves the texture of natural gums, allowing formulators to create sensorial textures that are entirely of natural origin and biodegradable without the use of synthetic polymers,” says Granström.

She details how it can thicken anything from serums and emulsions to the most challenging sulfate-free surfactant systems.

“OceanThix LV’s low viscosity and shear-thinning behavior also allow the creation of fluid and sprayable textures.”

The industry has recently turned to algae for its potential UV-protecting and anti-aging properties.