Biosurfactants offer sustainable replacement for beauty’s green shift

The beauty industry continues to innovate its ingredient supply chain, and biosurfactants stand out as a sustainable swap. The naturally derived cleansing agents offer a more circular and scalable upgrade to conventional surfactants.

Biosurfactants help formulators cut carbon, boost mildness, and meet growing consumer demands for high-performing, low environmental impact products.

Innova Market Insights data indicates that global personal care product launches featuring biosurfactant claims rose by 5% between April 2020 and March 2025. In particular, the skin care category surged, with a 37% jump in new launches.

Companies such as AmphiStar, Evonik, and Syensqo are expanding their biosurfactant portfolios to support the green shift. Recent launches from these players reflect growing investment in fermentation-based surfactants and multifunctional skin-compatible solutions.

“The market for biosurfactants is poised for significant growth over the next few years, driven by increasing consumer demand for natural, sustainable, and clean label personal care products,” Sophie Roelants, COO of AmphiStar, tells Personal Care Insights.

“Regulatory pressure to phase out harmful synthetic surfactants and growing brand commitments to sustainability further accelerate adoption. Minimizing the environmental impact of surfactants, the most used ingredient class, directly supports brands in delivering truly cleaner, greener personal care solutions.”

Tradition and innovation

Formulators are under pressure to replace conventional surfactants, such as sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), with more environmentally friendly alternatives as clean beauty continues to evolve.

SLES remains a staple in personal care due to its affordability and lathering power. However, its synthetic origin and irritancy potential lead consumers and formulators to seek gentler, cleaner options. This search has accelerated a demand for surfactants with the same cleansing and foaming performance and fewer trade-offs.

In response, AmphiStar introduced AmphiCare, a biosurfactant produced through the precision fermentation of food and agricultural sidestreams.

“By substituting conventional surfactants with upcycled biosurfactants, produced from renewable waste and side streams, we significantly reduce carbon footprint and improve biodegradability,” says Roelants.

Formulators are pressured to replace conventional surfactants with environmentally friendly alternatives.Phasing out palm

Many conventional surfactants, including SLES, are derived from palm oil. However, the commodity is under increasing scrutiny due to its role in deforestation and carbon emissions.

According to EU estimates, around 300 football fields of forest are cleared every hour for palm plantations. These environmental impacts are prompting a shift toward palm-free alternatives such as upcycled biosurfactants.

As the EU prepares for the upcoming Deforestation Regulation, which will ban the import and sale of products linked to recent deforestation, formulators are encouraged to use agricultural byproducts and fermentation-based alternatives in beauty formulations.

Suppliers such as Syensqo, whose portfolio includes specialty biosurfactants, support the global push toward cleaner surfactants. Earlier this year, Univar Solutions became the sole distributor of Syensqo’s beauty care ingredients across the US and Canada, pushing toward a more ecological global beauty industry.

“This isn’t just about distributing their products, it’s about weaving innovation, sustainability, and unparalleled support into the fabric of our relationship,” said James Peterson, global VP of Care at Univar Solutions.

Clean, green, and upcycled

Biotech-derived ingredients offer a more transparent route toward sustainable formulation. However, as consumers grow more scrutinous of green claims, companies are prompted to invest in data-backed verification.

To validate the technology’s environmental benefits, AmphiStar recently conducted a full life cycle assessment (LCA), which confirmed that the biosurfactants have a lower environmental impact than traditional fossil and palm-based alternatives.

“The LCA confirmed that AmphiCare’s production emits four times less CO2 equivalents per kilo than an equivalent non-upcycled biosurfactant and 9.5 times less CO2 than a synthetic biosurfactant,” says Roelants.

“It also showed that AmphiStar is responsible for 18 times less water depletion, seven times less land use, and 15 times lower impact on biodiversity and human health compared to the non-upcycled sophorolipid benchmark.”Many conventional surfactants, including SLES, are derived from palm oil.

“By using locally available waste as feedstocks, we can avoid long logistic chains, and our fermentation process is performed at a mild temperature and in gentle conditions,” she adds.

Roelants attributes the improved footprint to second-generation feedstocks and low-energy fermentation.

“Our fermentation process also runs under mild, low-energy conditions. Our biosurfactants are readily biodegradable at the end of their lifecycle, unlike many synthetic alternatives, meaning they do not persist in the environment or contribute to aquatic toxicity.”

This type of LCA-backed sustainability narrative is increasingly echoed across the industry. At In-cosmetics Global 2025, Evonik presented its glycolipid-based biosurfactant Rheance D50, designed to be cruelty-free and suitable for hair and skin cleansing.

“We streamlined the processes for this product, and we’re able to identify new application fields like hair care,” sustainability analyst Stefan Liebig told Personal Care Insights at the trade show.

Microbiome-friendly mildness

One of biosurfactants’ strongest appeals is its suitability for mild, sensitive-skin-friendly formulations.

“AmphiCare is exceptionally pure and mild, making it ideal for skin and hair care applications,” says Roelants. “It was shown to be significantly milder than conventional surfactants like SLES, without compromising performance.”

Regulatory pressure and brands’ sustainability commitments help phase out harmful synthetic surfactants.Ingredient manufacturers are specifically designing complementary solutions to enhance this inherent gentleness, especially in the context of microbiome compatibility. 

Innova Market Insights’ data indicates a 33% average annual growth in personal care launches with a microbiome-friendly claim between April 2020 and March 2025.

Supporting this trend, Evonik’s Dermosoft positions itself as a biosurfactant-adjacent multifunctional ingredient that does not interfere with the skin’s microbiome.

“The product has great skin and microbiome compatibility,” said Daniela Peters, global marketing manager at Evonik at In-cosmetics Global 2025. “It’s suitable for sensitive skin.”

She added that Dermosoft provides antimicrobial properties to protect formulations from spoilage, works synergistically with actives, and helps mask unwanted ingredient odors.

Overcoming formulator hesitancy

Some formulators hesitate to use biosurfactants due to sustainability, compatibility, or performance concerns. AmphiStar’s approach to meeting formulation demands includes ingredient diversity and hands-on formulation support.

“AmphiStar addresses formulation challenges such as stability, compatibility, and sensory feel by offering a broad range of high-purity biosurfactants that perform well across a wide pH range,” says Roelants.

The Belgian biotech firm has an ingredient library of over 80 biosurfactant molecules at pilot scale.

“These molecules offer a range of functionalities, such as emulsifying, cleansing, and solubilizing, allowing for fine-tuning in formulations and offering the diversity the market wants,” adds Roelants.Some formulators remain hesitant about biosurfactants’ stability, compatibility, or performance.

“To support adoption, our in-house formulator supports partners and customers, helping optimize and simplify formulations for a wide range of personal care applications.” 

Global scale cost efficiency

Historically, biosurfactants were viewed as too costly for wide-scale adoption. However, production methods are advancing alongside scaling efficiencies, making them increasingly economical. 

“Advances in biotechnology and fermentation processes are enabling more efficient, scalable, and cost-competitive production of tailored biosurfactants with improved performance and mildness,” says Roelants.

“We are confident pricing will be competitive when we scale up production. Our production process is designed with efficiency in mind — leveraging mild, low-energy fermentation conditions and avoiding the use of expensive virgin raw materials.”

“As production volumes grow, economies of scale will help make biosurfactants increasingly cost-competitive,” she explains.

Earlier this year, the company signed a strategic agreement to expand into the North American personal care market and is currently finalizing European partnerships.

“The biosurfactant market will evolve toward more circular, low-impact production models, delivering high-quality, eco-friendly ingredients that meet both consumer expectations and industry sustainability goals,” Roelants concludes.