BASF discovers “youth bacterium,” pilots “neuroskin-on-chip” and reveals advancements for effective cosmetics

20 Sep 2022 --- BASF scientists and its research partners are sharing significant discoveries that involve the identification of a decreasing skin-native bacteria due to age, and developing a cosmetic ingredient filling this gap with live microorganisms. Also, an applied neuroskin-on-chip method, designed by Netri, creates a novel 3D innervated skin model for testing.

In other research developments, a joint study with Stanford University (US) finds that emollients can reduce skin drying stressors and promote skin well-being. BASF is also investigating scalp health and skin sensitive microbiomes.

Growing skin on chip
Healthy skin requires the supply of nerve cells, and neurocosmetics can improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system, reducing signs of aging and skin actress, BASF highlights.

To develop and test neurocosmetics, the company stresses that accurate skin models are needed.

With French start-up, Netri, BASF has succeeded for the first time in growing an innervated epidermis on a chip. The neuroskin-on-chip is said to mimic the actual innervation physiology of the skin better when compared to existing innervated epidermis or skin models made by classical coculture.Healthy skin requires the supply of nerve cells, and neurocosmetics can improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system.

“It thus facilitates and improves the testing of high-performance neurocosmetic active ingredients,” states BASF.

“Youth bacterium” discovered
Skin aging is one of the most essential fields in cosmetics, notes BASF. So, to understand the relationship between aging and skin microbiome, the company conducted a study involving younger and older people. 

The researchers found “significant differences” between populations of Lactobacillus strains. L. crispatus was identified as a “youth bacterium” as it was abundant in younger skin and non-existent in hollow wrinkles of the older group. 

The findings led to the development of a probiotic cosmetic application for healthful aging, ensuring the survival of the bacteria. 

“This makes the ingredient the first based on skin-native and live bacteria. Its anti-aging efficacy has been demonstrated in-vitro and in-vivo versus placebo,” adds BASF.

Sensitive skin has varied microbiome
As research has previously shown, the skin microbiome is considered to be important in maintaining overall skin health. However, the relationship between the skin microbiome and skin sensitivity has received little attention, underscores BASF. 

In a study, BASF scientists studied the composition of the skin microbiota of individuals with sensitive skin and non-sensitive skin. They found changes in the presence and levels of common and specific bacteria strains between the skin types.

“For the first time, a droplet-based microfluidic technology developed by Biomillenia was used to isolate these bacterial strains in culture. The microbial library thus obtained can be used to identify and test active ingredients with the best potential to restore the balance of the microbiota of sensitive skin,” outlines the company.

Emollients for effective skincare
Skincare products are considered to be effective when they successfully improve skin hydration and biomechanics, says BASF. The relationship between the skin microbiome and skin sensitivity has received little attention.

Therefore, it is vital to understand the effects of biomechanical stress in the stratum corneum (outermost layer of the epidermis) during desiccation (moisture loss). 

The company and Prof. Reinhold Dauskardt at Stanford University investigated the influence of different emollients within skincare formulations.

They found that skin drying stresses can be reduced by carefully selecting emollients and other ingredients.

Plant extracts for age-related scalp health
Another one of BASF’s latest research advancements in skincare is the company’s new “holistic anti-aging approach” for scalp and hair follicles based on a temperance strategy.

Aging affects the structure of the scalp and its ability to regenerate change, which can lead to hair loss and affect self-confidence. 

The company had three main objectives: “Moderation of scalp sensitivity by protecting the epidermal barrier, balancing the microbiota and moderating the excessive immune response.” 

Plant extracts were selected based on their Transient receptor potential vanilloid subtype 1 (TRPV1)-antagonist properties. The best extract was studied on its effects based on the company’s objectives. Thus, a plant extract was identified as suitable for helping age-related changes in the scalp and hair.

BASF is presenting its study at the 32nd International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists Congress.

Edited by Venya Patel